My notions of greasy, salty, homogenous Chinese food completely changed when I stumbled upon the Gourmet Dumpling House. In the heart of China Town, near the corner of Beech St. and Harrison Ave., this little restaurant does a lot of business. Most afternoons and evenings you’ll be among many customers waiting in line for a table, but don’t be discouraged, the line moves quickly. Once you get inside, you’ll be pointed in the direction of your table, amidst the hustle and bustle of servers shouting in Chinese and customers excitedly eating and talking. The modest décor of the dining room, bright overhead lights, high noise level and tight quarters adds to the no-frills appeal of the place. You may find yourself sharing a table with another two or three people, or be in the very back by the fish tank, where perhaps you’ll have the experience of watching a fish get pulled from the tank and brought to the kitchen to be cooked. Mostly, enjoy your meal, but don’t expect to linger. The line at the door is a reminder that you shouldn’t outstay your welcome. But ambience isn’t the reason to seek the Gourmet Dumpling House, really it comes down to the food.
High turnover means fresh ingredients. That’s something you get a sense of the minute you walk in the door. Servers weave their ways through the tables carrying everything from heaping plates of steaming dumplings to bubbling soups to a whole fish splayed out on a large plate smothered in a spicy sauce. The menu spans nearly six pages, typical of a Chinese restaurant, but the unique items set this place apart and there is certainly something for everyone, even vegetarians. Those wishing to try something really unusual may gravitate towards the pickled mustard greens with intestines and blood pudding, the sautéed pig’s feet or the frog and clam soup. Others looking for something more traditional may enjoy the made-to-order pork and leek or vegetarian dumplings, the braised eggplant with basil or the julienned chicken wonton soup with sprigs of cilantro and diced hot peppers. As a semi-vegetarian myself, the menu offers a number of vegetable dishes. My favorites include the spicy sautéed Chinese lettuce with enough of a kick to make your nose run, along with the sautéed pea shoots with garlic, wonderfully mild laid over a bowl of rice, and the fried scallion pancakes with a delicious soy ginger dipping sauce. All of this can be washed down by beer or wine, although a nice cold Chinese Tsingtao beer really does the trick.
The generous portions and the reasonable prices make this a great place to bring another person or a group. You can get plenty of food and not break the bank. Lunch specials are a set price of $7.25, appetizers $5-6 and dinner entrees mostly between $9-13. If you don’t have time to sit down, they also offer a take-out menu.
High on my list of best places in China Town, The Gourmet Dumpling House is a sure hit with everyone I recommend it to. A sure feast for all the senses, especially your taste buds, stop in the next time you’re walking through China Town, you won’t regret it.
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